After spending a decade immersed in the restaurant scene and mastering Taiwanese cuisine in the vibrant environment of New York City, I've come to realize that nostalgia plays a significant role in many culinary experiences. It often leads us to believe that the dishes of our childhood are superior, making us gravitate towards familiar favorites without considering other options. However, familiarity doesn't always equate to quality.
During my regular visits to my hometown of Taipei, I strive to overcome this nostalgia bias. Occasionally, I revisit beloved eateries only to find them lacking. Other times, I discover hidden gems at unexpected food stalls. This led me to ponder: where would I take my New York staff for their first taste of Taiwanese breakfast? Or how could I introduce someone unfamiliar with Taipei to its remarkable craft beer offerings?
This guide outlines my culinary exploration in Taipei, showcasing the city's diverse food culture. It features classic establishments, such as my go-to Taiwanese stir-fry spot and a renowned beef noodle soup restaurant that pays homage to the working-class meal. Given that drinking is an integral part of Taiwanese culture, I've included a taproom with brews tailored to local tastes, as well as the ultimate Taiwanese breakfast, perfect for early risers battling jet lag.
Defining Taiwanese cuisine is challenging. It embodies a fusion of flavors from various groups, including Indigenous tribes, Chinese immigrants, Japanese and Dutch colonists, and American soldiers, creating a unique local perspective. As I continue to return to Taipei, especially while working on my upcoming cookbook, Taiwanese?, I appreciate how the city embraces its culinary identity. Chefs and restaurateurs are elevating dishes once found only in family-run stalls, proudly showcasing influences that were once viewed as foreign impositions. This reflects the Taiwanese spirit.
This itinerary is not only manageable in a single day but also highlights the depth and versatility of Taipei's food and drink scene.
Fuhang Soy Milk
Every Taiwanese has a favorite breakfast destination, and mine is Fuhang. Located on the second floor of Huashan Market, this bustling stall has become a local favorite. The menu is quintessentially Chinese, featuring items like shaobing (flaky flatbreads), scallion pancakes, and soy milk, harmoniously combined to create a breakfast masterpiece. Fuhang, a family-run establishment for three generations, excels in crafting savory soy milk with the perfect balance of acidity and nuttiness, alongside thick shaobing resembling a cross between a bagel and a pepper bun, and fan tuan: steamed glutinous rice rolls filled with pork floss, sautéed sun-dried turnips, and crispy youtiao (doughnut sticks). The ideal way to enjoy this dish is by dipping the hot shaobing into the savory soy milk.
Pro tip: Expect a long line at Fuhang, but don't worry; it moves quickly, a testament to its quality.
108 E. Zhongxiao Road, Section 1, Zhongzheng District, Taipei City. Open 5:30 a.m. to 12:30 p.m.
Dadaocheng Luroufan
During my last visit to Taiwan, I sampled over 60 bowls of lu rou fan for my cookbook research, but one particular spot in Jiancheng Market stands out. Lu rou fan consists of pork braised with shallots, soy sauce, and various spices, served over rice. Each cook adds their unique twist to this classic dish, and the owner at Dadaocheng Luroufan has crafted a version using fattier meat and extra pork skin for a delightful texture. Don't forget to try the mustard greens, which add a refreshing contrast to the rich flavors.
Pro tip: End your meal at Mu Zi Li Ice Cream & Beverage Shop, just around the corner, for seasonal shaved ice, especially ripe mango in summer.
17 W. Chang'an Road, Lane 220, Datong District, Taipei City. Open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday through Friday.
Neverland Noodle Bar
Beef noodle soup is a beloved dish across Taiwan, enjoyed by everyone from construction workers to office employees. At Neverland Noodle Bar, located in Nangang, this classic is elevated. The process remains the same: you select your broth, meat, and noodles, but every detail is refined. My first visit with my father, a discerning foodie, left us both amazed. Depending on my mood, I often opt for the clear broth paired with thin noodles, tender beef shanks, and chewy tendon.
Pro tip: Try ordering mozzarella sticks to dip in your beef noodle soup--it may sound unusual, but it's surprisingly delicious!
265 Nangang Road, Section 1, Nangang District, Taipei City. Open 11:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., 5 p.m. to 10 p.m.
Xiao Lin Seafood Restaurant
The inspiration for my first restaurant in New York, 886, came from Taiwanese stir-fry spots like Xiao Lin Seafood Restaurant in Da'an. These bustling eateries serve a wide array of dishes and are perfect for large groups. Xiao Lin is famous for its fried squid beaks, known as dragonballs, which are a must-try. Pair them with chicken soup seasoned with marinated long hots and fresh bamboo for a delightful experience.
Pro tip: Bring a group--ideally eight people--to share a variety of dishes and enjoy Taiwan Beer 18 Days, which is fresher than regular Taiwan Beer.
574-1 Guangfu South Road, Da'an District, Taipei City. Open 5 p.m. to 1 a.m.
Taihu Da'an
A loyal customer introduced me to this craft brewery years ago, and I was impressed by its offerings. The beer is crafted to suit Taiwanese tastes, featuring a touch of sweetness and clever names. The taproom serves unique bar snacks you won't find elsewhere, such as lu rou fan and Sichuan-style dumplings. Taihu embodies both Taiwanese and American influences, creating a relaxed atmosphere for all.
Pro tip: I recommend the lager and chicken cartilage, and try to charm your server into providing some salted egg yolk aioli to enhance your meal.
34 Ren'ai Road, Lane 27, Section 4, Da'an District, Taipei City. Open 4 p.m. to 11:30 p.m. Monday to Thursday, 12 p.m. to 12:30 a.m. Friday and Saturday, 12 p.m. to 11:30 p.m. Sunday.
Elyse Inamine is a writer and editor based in New York City, with contributions to The New York Times, Bon Appétit, Food & Wine, and more. She is also the co-author of Eric Sze's upcoming cookbook, Taiwanese?.
