A regional favorite finds a wider audience
Thin, crisp and cut into squares, tavern-style pizza is appearing on menus well beyond its Midwestern roots. In Chicago, it is often the everyday pie--not the deep-dish specialty that many visitors associate with the city. The style is also linked to places such as Milwaukee, Minnesota and St. Louis, where local versions bring their own flavors and traditions.
The pizza's cracker-like crust and grid of bite-sized pieces make it easy to share, whether at a casual dinner or alongside drinks. Some chefs take inspiration from a particular hometown recipe; others adapt the format with their own dough, ingredients and regional influences. New York's Ops, for instance, has developed a crisp, whole-grain version called "tavernetta."
Restaurants in cities including Washington, D.C., Los Angeles and Portland are also incorporating the style into their menus. For operators, it can be both a distinctive offering and a way to create the relaxed, welcoming atmosphere associated with neighborhood taverns. Portland restaurant Proof, run by Chicago-area natives Brittany and Brennan Grosvenor, pairs its pizza with other Midwestern favorites.
As more restaurants reinterpret the format, tavern-style pizza is introducing diners to a broader range of regional pizza traditions. Its growing presence may help keep local food identities alive while inspiring new takes on a familiar, shareable classic.
