The choice to wear a hat today is a matter of personal preference, but four centuries ago, it was dictated by rigid social customs known as "hatiquette." A recent study published in The Historical Journal by Cambridge University Press reveals that refusing to remove a hat was often seen as a bold act of defiance.
One notable instance occurred in 1630 when an outspoken oatmeal maker faced England's highest church court. After acknowledging the judges by briefly removing his hat, he quickly replaced it, exclaiming, "as you are privy councillors ... I put off my hat; but as ye [bishops] are rags of the Beast, lo! -- I put it on again."
As political unrest grew during the reign of Charles I, the refusal to doff a hat became a recognized symbol of protest, particularly during the English Civil War.
From Social Custom to Political Protest
Historian Bernard Capp, Emeritus Professor at the University of Warwick, notes that hat etiquette once reinforced social hierarchies. "Men and boys were expected to doff their hats to superiors as a sign of respect. However, during the revolutionary 1640s and 1650s, this custom transformed into a gesture of political defiance," he explains.
Prominent figures utilized this act to convey powerful messages. In 1646, radical John Lilburne, imprisoned in Newgate, resolved to enter the House of Lords wearing his hat, declaring his disdain for the charges against him. Similarly, in 1649, Digger leaders William Everard and Gerrard Winstanley refused to remove their hats in front of General Fairfax, asserting their equality.
This defiance crossed political boundaries. Even after losing power, royalists employed the gesture to signal resistance. Charles I famously kept his hat on during his trial in January 1649, asserting his rejection of the court's authority.
A Father's Unusual Punishment
Not all hat-related conflicts occurred in public. Capp recounts a domestic incident from 1659 where Thomas Ellwood's father confiscated his son's hats to exert control. Ellwood later reflected that without a hat, he felt socially stigmatized, illustrating the profound impact of these norms on personal lives.
Why Hat-Doffing Declined
While some historians attribute the decline of hat-doffing to the rise of handshaking, Capp disagrees. He believes that evolving social manners and the increasing popularity of wigs played significant roles in diminishing the importance of hats. "Conventions change over generations and are often influenced by multiple factors," he states.
Hats as Protection and Social Necessity
Health concerns also contributed to the significance of hats, as many men wore wigs over shaved heads, making them susceptible to cold. Medical advice stressed the importance of head protection to avoid illness.
The Social Meaning of Being Bareheaded
In 18th-century England, being seen without a hat could imply extreme poverty or mental instability, leading to significant social consequences. Capp concludes, "What you wear communicates your self-perception and worldview. Hats are particularly expressive because of their versatility and the messages they can convey."