The fashion industry is increasingly aware of its significant waste issue, with approximately one garbage truck's worth of textiles discarded every second. This sector also contributes more carbon emissions than global aviation and maritime transport combined.
Innovative companies are exploring various methods to tackle textile waste, and some are focusing on developing sustainable materials that do not rely on fossil fuels. Among these innovators is Rubi, a startup that aims to revolutionize textile production by utilizing captured carbon dioxide to create materials like lyocell and viscose. According to co-founder and CEO Neeka Mashouf, Rubi is essentially harnessing biological processes outside of cells to produce these essential building blocks.
Recently, Rubi secured $7.5 million in funding to scale its cellulosic production system, which is designed to generate significant quantities of material using CO2 as its primary ingredient. The funding round was led by AP Ventures and FH One Investments, with contributions from H&M Group and others.
With over $60 million in non-binding off-take agreements already in place, Rubi has collaborated with 15 pilot partners, including renowned brands like H&M, Patagonia, and Walmart. Their innovative approach employs enzymes for cellulose production, setting them apart from other startups that might use engineered bacteria or chemical catalysts. Currently, most cellulose is derived from trees, which can involve extensive supply chains.
"These textile and raw material supply chains are very long," Mashouf noted. "In the U.S., there's a growing interest in producing textile-grade cellulose pulp, which is currently lacking."
The idea of using enzymes emerged from a collaboration between Mashouf, a scientist specializing in new materials, and her sister Leila, a medical student at Harvard. "We explored various technologies but consistently returned to the potential of enzymes," she explained.
The enzyme market is vast and already supports industries like high fructose corn syrup production and wastewater treatment, offering a low-cost solution for Rubi's needs. The startup employs a "cascade" of enzymes to convert waste carbon dioxide into cellulose, leveraging AI and machine learning to enhance enzyme performance and stability.
In their process, enzymes are suspended in a solution, and when carbon dioxide is introduced, cellulose forms in a matter of minutes. Rubi's reactors are designed to fit in shipping container-sized modules, with plans to evolve towards continuous production in the future.
Initially targeting apparel companies, Rubi envisions expanding its cellulose supply to any industry that requires it. "We see this as a platform," Mashouf stated. "Our goal is to enable the production of essential chemicals and materials across various sectors at a low cost."