An artist has raised concerns regarding the upcoming spring 2026 exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art, asserting that a garment displayed is a "counterfeit" of her original design, created without proper credit or compensation.
In a series of viral posts on social media, London-based sculptor and textile designer Anouska Samms has claimed joint authorship of Corpus Nervina 0.0, a piece featured in the recently launched "Costume Art" exhibition. This garment draws inspiration from a 2023 collaboration between Samms and designer Yoav Hadari for his fashion label, Psycheangelic, titled Nervina.
Samms recounts that she met Hadari during a residency at the Alexander McQueen Sarabande Foundation, where he invited her to weave several pieces for his Autumn/Winter collection, including the Nervina hair dress.
Hadari has previously described their collaboration as pivotal, emphasizing the unique nature of Samms's work, which incorporates hair into her textiles. In 2025, the Metropolitan Museum expressed interest in acquiring the original hair dress for the exhibition. However, discussions shifted to a remake after Hadari reported damage to the original piece. By the end of that year, the acquisition agreement fell through.
When Samms's lawyer sought clarification, curator Andrew Bolton communicated via email that the museum would not be proceeding with the acquisition. Subsequently, Hadari offered the museum two ensembles of his own design.
Upon the opening of "Costume Art," Samms discovered her design included in the exhibition through a social media post from the Sarabande Foundation, which credited only Hadari as the creator of the garment. Samms expressed her shock at this revelation, noting that she was unaware of her design's inclusion until being tagged online.
A contract established between Hadari and Samms in October 2023 clarified that Samms retains ownership of the intellectual property related to the textile, which is hair-based. The museum's accompanying text for the garment, however, indicates that Samms's textile was not utilized, stating that the piece is made from different materials.
In a social media post, Hadari acknowledged that Corpus Nervina 0.0 is inspired by their collaboration, yet his team contended that Samms's ownership of the textile does not extend to the design or creative direction of the hair dress.
The Metropolitan Museum has opted not to comment on the situation, citing respect for the involved artists and their ongoing dispute. Samms has clarified that her intention is not to "cancel" her collaborator but to urge the museum and its stakeholders to fulfill their legal and ethical obligations regarding credit and compensation.
Samms's legal representative expressed that she seeks acknowledgment as a co-creator and appropriate payment for her contributions, emphasizing the importance of recognizing artistic collaboration in the fashion industry.